Bush Honeysuckle Removal in Southern Illinois
The green wall taking over your woods and fence rows — how to spot it, why cutting it never seems to work, and how we knock it back for good.
The Short Answer
Bush honeysuckle removalmeans clearing out the invasive shrub that’s taken over so many woods and fence rows in Southern Illinois. Cutting it alone doesn’t work because it resprouts hard from the stump and roots. The practical fix on any real acreage is to grind the whole stand flat with a forestry mulcher, then treat the regrowth or run a light maintenance pass the next season. Mulching gives you the land back in a day; the follow-up is what keeps the honeysuckle from taking it back.
How to spot bush honeysuckle
If one plant has quietly filled in the understory of your woods and crept out along every fence row, there’s a good chance it’s bush honeysuckle. It’s the single most common invasive shrub we run into across Southern Illinois, and once you know what you’re looking at, you start seeing it everywhere.
- Green first, green last — it leafs out weeks earlier in spring and holds its leaves weeks later in fall than the native trees and brush around it. In late November, when the woods have gone bare, the honeysuckle is still a bright green wall.
- Paired, opposite leaves — the oval leaves sit directly across from each other on the stem, not staggered.
- Hollow older stems — snap a mature branch and the center is hollow, which sets it apart from the native shrubs it gets confused with.
- Red berries — small red berries in late summer and fall that the birds eat and scatter across the whole property, which is exactly how it spreads so fast.
- Arching, multi-stem shape — a dense, arching shrub, usually 6 to 15 feet tall, with several stems coming up from one root crown.
Why it’s such a problem here
Bush honeysuckle isn’t native to Illinois, and it doesn’t play by the same rules as the plants that are. It’s listed under the Illinois Exotic Weed Act, which makes it illegal to sell or plant in the state — nobody’s making you pull what’s already on your ground, but that classification tells you how little it belongs here.
The trouble is how it wins. By leafing out early and shading the ground before anything else gets going, it starves out the young oaks, hickories, and wildflowers that should be coming up under your canopy. Give it a few years and the entire understory is honeysuckle and nothing else — a green wall you can’t walk through, hunt, or see across.
- It crowds out your timber — the next generation of oak and walnut can’t get started in the shade, so the woods that should be regenerating just fills with more honeysuckle.
- It’s poor deer country — a honeysuckle thicket looks like cover but offers deer little real food, and it chokes out the native browse and mast that hold them.
- It takes the fence rows — left alone it marches out of the woods and eats 10 or 15 feet of pasture and field edge, the same story we see with overgrown fence lines.
- It hides your property — a buyer or an appraiser can only value what they can walk, and a wall of honeysuckle hides the ground entirely.
Why cutting it never seems to work
Here’s the part that frustrates every landowner who’s taken a chainsaw or a brush hog to it: honeysuckle grows back. Cut a stem off at the ground and the root crown answers with a whole fistful of new shoots, so a year later you’ve got a thicker, bushier plant than the one you cut. Cutting alone doesn’t kill honeysuckle — it prunes it.
That’s why real control always comes down to the roots, and there are only two honest ways to get there. On a small patch, you cut each stem and paint the fresh stump with concentrated herbicide the same day, so the plant carries it down into the root and dies for good. On an acre or a whole woods full of it, hand-cutting stump by stump isn’t realistic — so you grind the stand flat, then stay on the regrowth until the roots run out of energy. Either way, the trick is to plan for the comeback instead of being surprised by it.
How we knock it back
For anything bigger than a backyard patch, we clear honeysuckle with a forestry mulcher. The cutting head grinds standing honeysuckle — stems and all — into chips right where it stands, in a single pass, and leaves that mulch on the ground where it shades the dirt and slows the next round of seedlings. There are no burn piles to babysit and nothing to haul off, and you get a walkable, open property back the same day.
When the honeysuckle is choking the understory of a wooded tract, the same work becomes underbrush clearing — selective grinding that takes out the honeysuckle while the operator picks around the mature oaks and walnuts you want to keep. In open ground, a filled-in field, or a lost fence row, it’s straight brush clearing. The machine is the same; the job takes the name of the ground it’s working.
The honest part is what comes next. Mulching is the fast, dramatic knockdown — an impossible thicket turned into open ground in an afternoon — but the roots are still alive and honeysuckle will push new shoots. That’s expected. Treating the regrowth or running a light maintenance pass the following season is what turns a knockdown into real control, and it costs a fraction of that first clear.
The best time of year to do it
Winter is the sweet spot for the mechanical work, the same as it is for most clearing jobs in this country. Frozen ground carries the machine clean instead of rutting the soft clay and creek-bottom soils that run through Southern Illinois, and with the leaves down the operator can see and reach every stem.
Honeysuckle hands you an extra advantage on timing. Because it greens up so early and holds its leaves so late, late fall and early spring are exactly when it stands out against the bare native woods — which makes it the easiest time to find every plant and be sure you got it all. Wet springs are the hardest window for the equipment; late summer and fall work fine once the ground firms back up.
What honeysuckle removal costs
Mechanical honeysuckle removal here usually runs about $1,000 to $2,500 per acre, depending on how thick and how tall the stand is and whether it’s open ground or under a canopy. A field edge or fence row of scattered honeysuckle lands near the bottom. A solid, mature wall of it in tight timber lands near the top, because there’s far more to grind and the operator has to work slower to protect the trees worth keeping.
The first clear on a badly overrun property is always the expensive pass. After that, the yearly cost drops off a cliff — a light maintenance run keeps the honeysuckle from ever getting a foothold again for a small fraction of what it took to reclaim the ground the first time. For the full breakdown of what moves the price on any clearing job, see our clearing cost guide.
We’re based in Patoka and clear honeysuckle across Southern Illinois and the Metro East, with regular trips to Centralia, Salem, Mt. Vernon, and Vandalia. Tell us how bad the honeysuckle has gotten and what you want the ground to look like when it’s gone, and we’ll get you a free estimate.
Common Questions
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Serving Southern Illinois, the St. Louis Metro East, and surrounding counties